Yared

My friend JRuss aka "Flickalick" is still in Addis and sent me these wonderful pictures of Yared the baby that stole my heart at the Missionaries of Charity Asco Orphanage. I mentioned him several times in my posts as he was in and out of the sick room.

From her e-mail he seems to be doing well: "Saw yared yesterday and thought of you. he is doing very well. Very rambunctious and precious. Beautiful smile as always."

It makes me smile to know that he is being watched and cared for, but with so many orphans in that part of the world it pains me to think of the mothers who are forced to leave their children in the care of strangers in the hope that they'll have a better life.

Reflections

Well, this is the post I have been putting off for the past two months. It is my “reflection” post. I was expecting to know how to move forward from my experience in Ethiopia before I wrote anything, but I am still trying to figure that out. I am hoping to say what is most important to share. I know that I want my reflections to encourage and inspire acts of love. I want to motivate people to give more – more time to God’s work, more love to the lonely, and more help to the poor.

First, let me say that every experience is unique and the quality of it depends on your attitude. If you enter with expectations you are bound to be disappointed. That may sound strange because doesn’t a positive attitude mean having high expectations? I used to think so until I realized that everything in this world is capable of disappointment. Expectations (high or low) set you up to miss the joy of the moment. When I got on the plane to head to Ethiopia I prayed that God would help me clear my head of my own expectations and reveal His plan. By laying my expectations on God (the one who will not disappoint) I went through this journey in constant prayer…asking God in the morning to give me a positive attitude, to show me the right course for the day, and seeking His grace when situations tried my patience. That ongoing conversation brought me closer to Him and simple things that would have been overlooked became matters of praise. I was more tuned in to others around me. Since I’ve returned I’ve watched myself slip from that trust. My expectations have been lowered because I’m back to my “normal” life. In the beginning of this I mention my expectation of moving forward. I’ve been relying on my own efforts to discover what I should do next and because of it I am restless and anxious. Already, I’m me-focused again.

There are two points here: 1. You don’t have to go to Ethiopia to have a life-changing experience (Although, if you do go you will.) 2. We are not equipped to go through this world on our own. We need God. We need each other.

To help process these reflections I came up with some questions. Hopefully, they will help me say what needs to be said about the desperate situation facing millions of people on our planet. (These are in no particular order)

Is there hope? Yes. Hope is found in the children…the ones who go to school hungry because they believe in a greater future. Hope is found in the volunteers who come from across the world, cross all borders, to show love to a stranger. Hope is in the congregations that send money to places they’ve never been. Hope is in the Addis Ababa SIM mission who is administering ARV medicine to AIDS patients – making life possible and turning death into a thing of the past. Hope is in Destiny Academy where one school of thirty is now a school of 200 and employer of 19. Hope is in the mothers who will do grueling construction labor to provide food for their children. Hope is in the countless stories of redemption when someone does something out of compassion and selflessness.

What can be done? Become aware. Be a servant. Think beyond yourself. Put your problems aside and do something about the loneliness and plight of people around you. Each one of us can start by showing more love to family and friends. We can start doing what we have expected others to do – giving food to the hungry, sheltering the homeless, caring for the elderly, supporting the missions of organizations that are already at work. Use your passions and gifts for the betterment of someone else’s day.

Isn’t it (the problem of poverty) overwhelming? Yes, if you try to do it all on your own. Fortunately, there is a network of NGOs, charities, public/private efforts around the world doing incredible things that save lives everyday. Those entities are made up of individuals like you and me. Through an act of faith Mother Teresa started as a mission of one. Hareg and Yonatan started Destiny Academy on their own. The acts of individuals have inspired others and the ripple effect brings us to hope in spite of the odds.

Why Africa? Because it is a continent that will grab hold of your heart and never let go. Because the poverty is worse than anywhere else in the world.

What works? Opinions differ on this, but however it is done, empowering people to live healthy, independent lives should be the mission. I think education and jobs are two of the most important things in breaking the cycle of poverty. But sick people can’t work or go to school. They need clean water and healthcare. Whether it’s through a micro-loan or donation I think the thing that matters is that people are receiving a fighting chance. Another component is the restoration of dignity – which comes when a father is able to provide for his family, when children can go to school, and mothers are not reduced to begging. A saying that Ethiopians adopted from a Chinese proverb is, “Give a man a fish and feed him for a day; teach a man to fish and feed him for a lifetime.”

How can you go back to a normal life without guilt? Let the guilt be a reminder of your blessings and then do something about it. Those of us blessed with material possessions and security have a responsibility to be good stewards of our wealth. Don’t stop giving. Now that I am back I am volunteering at a local mission in Toledo, OH. It serves the homeless and vulnerable...turning lives around. For more than 60 years it has relied fully on private donations.

What is the situation? The situation is that there are children dying of hunger every few seconds. There are people dying from preventable diseases. War is turning children into soldiers and killing the innocent. In Ethiopia (pop. 72 mill) there are approximately 5 million orphans. Grandmothers are raising their grandchildren because the parents have died of AIDS. Only 22% of the country has access to clean water and electricity. 50% of the population is below the poverty line and lives on less than $1 a day. Only 3% of the nation’s 7 million 4 to 6 year-olds is in school.

What do I miss most? The people. The love and grace shown by the people of Ethiopia is second to none. They are also some of the most beautiful people I have ever seen. They possess a heritage that dates to the beginning of humanity. They have endured hardships that most in this world cannot comprehend, but they always welcome a visitor as a guest in their home. I miss the delicious mangoes, the feeling that you get when you’ve taught a good school lesson, the humility of seeing people with nothing offer all they have, the crowded minibuses, the unpredictability, the traditions of a culture that treasures food, dance, and religion, the coffee, the hugs and kisses from the children, the beautiful landscape, the inspiring acts of kindness and triumph.

In conclusion, the basic truth is that people are resilient and capable of amazing things. The other truth is that human suffering is something we can’t ignore. Moving forward I will post opportunities to get involved with the effort in Ethiopia. One thing I ask that you pray for is a way to help Destiny Academy expand. Destiny is the school where I worked. It is already growing beyond its capacity, and we are exploring options to open a new compound. Thank you for joining me in this journey.

Pictures

I've added more pictures of my trip on facebook.
Here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=71989&l=104f3&id=501775149
and here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=72031&l=1e244&id=501775149

Back In America

I arrived home yesterday afternoon. I'm still processing all that has happened over the past four months, but I intend to post reflections and updates on things going on in Ethiopia. I just want to thank everyone that has stayed in touch and prayed for me. Your support helped make this possible. God bless you.

You can also check out the blogs of some of my friends still living at the Cherokee House. I've linked to their sites on the right. They have great accounts of our work in Ethiopia.

Here are some pictures of my final days at Destiny Academy. These are the best children on the planet.

Saying goodbye to the preschoolers at Destiny Academy.

The fourth grade class at Destiny Academy.

Reading a story during recess.

Seeing What's Changed

I have decided to return to America as planned on November 1. It is strange to picture myself back in the States, back to my old way of life. I’ve grown accustomed to so many things…little things that seem insignificant, but add up to a changed mindset. For one thing, I have gone nearly four months without TV. Reading a book is now my choice form of entertainment. I’ve accepted that if one thing on a to-do list gets done then I’ve accomplished something. Though difficult, it is possible to coordinate without a cell phone. Choosing from a wardrobe that consists of 3 pairs of jeans, cargo pants, and a few tees makes the morning routine a whole lot shorter. Meal time is for sharing and visiting with friends – there is no such thing as a drive-thru. Getting online (via dial-up) every other day is sufficient. Buying food and toiletries is what I consider shopping. I’ve used a hair dryer maybe ten times and that’s the extent of fixing my hair. The term “going out” refers to dinner at a restaurant and home by 10:00PM. I have gotten used to taking my own toilet paper to the bathroom; it’s a novelty to find it in the stall. Dodging livestock and manure in the streets is commonplace. I find more pleasure in finding a seat on a taxi than hearing the latest celebrity gossip. Waking up at 6:00 AM comes naturally (it no longer takes two alarms and a phone call from Dad.) A sunny day makes for a great day. Some of these I’ll be glad to do without, but most have been a blessing in disguise. Certainly, safely drinking water from the tap will be a treat. And having the luxury to “get in a car and go” will be awesome. But being without some of the comforts of home has stretched me and given me the patience and the ability to find contentment in tough situations.

Thankfully, I managed to overcome the common attitude of feeling limited by the inaccessibility of so many things. Though at times the conditions are frustrating, even disgusting, it helped me to see how blessed I am and how much we are capable of living without. Or, in other words, how little can make us happy. What I’ve gained is a life that has been simplified and stripped of a lot of clutter. In some instances, going back will be a breath of fresh air. Knowing I have a return flight is what makes it easy. Still, I know it will also be a massive shock because I’ll finally see the disparity of wealth in this world. Hopefully, when I return I will keep a passion for the poor and a heart full of gratitude for what I possess.

(For an update about our trip to Bahir Dar - see previous post below)

Day 117: Our Trip to Bahir Dar

Two weekends ago our group took a four-day trip to Bahir Dar in the north part of Ethiopia. I thought the south was beautiful, but I don’t think I’ve seen anything more spectacular than the views we had on our drive up. Eight of us rented a van and hired a driver for the weekend getaway. It was a much better deal than taking the forenji priced flight and missing out on the sights. We left at 5:00 AM (well, when we finally loaded up it was 5:45 AM) on Thursday morning geared up for the 10 hour drive. We drove over Entoto mountain just north of Addis and were soon in the country side. For the first 230 km the road was paved and offered an incredible view of bright, grassy fields and rugged mountains. Now that the rainy season is over the land is lush and green. Yellow meskel flowers that bloom in September dot the hillsides.

Leaving that early in the morning the sun shone bright and glistened over the misty fields and streams. Smoke billowed from the huts as people began their day with a cup of coffee. Children dressed in uniforms and carrying books headed in the direction of school and herders took their livestock to graze. We drove past people, often young children, carrying jugs to be filled with milk and water. Many people flagged their hand at us hoping for a ride in the direction of the next town. Aside from the road we were traveling on there was nothing, but natural splendor as far as the eye could see. I felt like a spectator traveling through another time and place.




On the road to Bahir Dar. Entering the gorge. Fields of green.

A few hours into it we stopped for coffee. Anytime we slowed in a town people would stop and stare at the spectacle of a van full of white people. Sometimes we felt like caged animals in a circus. Soon we had reached the hardest part of our drive...the Blue Nile Gorge. This is the part I had anticipated with trepidation for it is known for treacherous road conditions. We reached the start of it and realized just how vast it was. One guide book compared it to the Grand Canyon and I don’t think it’s that far off base. Knowing we were about to drive through it was something we had to prepare for. We took pictures along the way admiring our driver’s skills and giving up on any form of relaxation until it was over. 2 ½ hours later we had made it across the river to the other side and were back on paved road. It was amazing. The rest of the trip was pretty much the same. The sunset was incredible creating a view that pictures or words cannot capture. Finally, a short 13 hours after the start of our trip, we were in the lobby of the Summerland Hotel.

Bahir Dar sits on the southern shore of Lake Tana, the largest lake in Ethiopia. It is a tropical town with temperate weather conditions. The streets are lined with palm trees. The lake contains several islands home to ancient monasteries. On our first day we slept in and did our own thing until lunch. I went on a jog toward the “boardwalk” leading to the shore of the lake. Apparently, I stumbled onto a bathing area although I didn’t notice it until we were on a boat the next day. I had wondered why I was the only female around. (Those are the types of culturally sensitive situations you have to look out for.)

In the afternoon a connection hooked us up with a local tour guide who accompanied us to the Blue Nile Falls. It is the start of the Blue Nile River which is a source of the Nile. This is one of the sights I had hoped to see when in Ethiopia for the falls are comparable to Victoria Falls in Africa. Unfortunately, due to a hydro-powered plant the falls are not quite as spectacular as they used to be. It was still quite amazing. We hiked up a hill across from the falls. From there we had an awesome view of the massive flow of water. Cows grazed in the surrounding fields and children gave impressive spiels trying to sell handmade goods around this natural tourist attraction. We decided to hike another hour to get closer to the falls. This involved crossing a stream with the assistance from some of the locals. It made for a great adventure. The sun was setting and casting a golden light on everything. I really find it hard to describe how beautiful everything was. We got to the bottom of the falls and carefully climbed across the slippery rocks to stand as close as possible and let the mist spray our faces. Then we had to turn around and walk quickly to the top of the falls where we would catch the last boat crossing the river.


Crossing the Blue Nile by foot. The Blue Nile Falls.



The sun shining at dusk. Crossing the Blue Nile by boat at sunset.

On Saturday we got up early to meet our guide in the lobby. Then we rented a boat to go see some of the monasteries. Our boat was not very big and we sat facing each other on benches along the sides. It took an hour to cross to the peninsula where one of the monasteries from the 14th century is located. That took another hike through jungle-like vegetation including wild coffee. The church is a circular building made of vertically lined sticks. Inside are impressive paintings depicting biblical stories and historic tales. Old monks sat under a tree reading peacefully while we walked around and took photos. Some of them looked like they could have been as old as the church itself.

I found it very moving to be there. I met one little boy who is a deacon; he is only twelve. He is studying to become a priest. As I looked at the ancient relics and religious icons I realized the devotion the keepers of that monastery had. Some people found it disturbing that we should pay to be near the presence of God and I agree, but at the same time I was in awe of the self-denying faith that the priests possess. I was extremely grateful that for hundreds of years people have sacrificed their own personal desires to faithfully preserve God’s word and create a place for peaceful worship.

On our boat ride back we spotted a hippo. They aren’t normally visible in the lake so that was a major bonus.

Day 89

Yesterday, I had a pretty traumatic experience. In the morning Pat and I decided to go to Sidist Kilo to work at Mother Teresa’s hospital for the sick and the dying destitute. While we were on the taxi at one of the stops our minibus hit a little street boy. We hadn’t moved very much, but the impact still made the most horrifying sound. For a split second I froze in shock until the boy’s screams snapped me back to reality. People didn’t react as I thought they would. At first the spectators just stood over him, and all of the passengers on our bus sat there stoically as if we were simply waiting for more to get on. The guy taking the money for our cab stood in the doorway looking down as if the whole problem was a nuisance. I couldn’t move to see how badly he was injured so I was trying to judge by people’s faces – his cries were enough to tell me everything was not okay. Nothing matched up and the confusion sent me into a pretty emotional state. Finally the boy was lifted by some men into our bus and placed on the floor next to our seat. He wasn’t bleeding, but he was holding his leg, and his face was wrenched with pain. I tried to hold back my own tears, but I was angry and sad. I felt helpless and mad that this boy, who has it bad enough, would find himself in such a painful and scary situation. He looked about nine years old, dirty and dressed in rags. The fact that he’s hanging around the taxi stop tells me he’s a street kid left to fend for himself. Going through something like that is hard enough, but it’s worse when you don’t have anyone to care for you. As I sat there waiting for the outcome I covered my face and prayed; I wanted to be anywhere but in that situation. The suffering of that boy was too real, and for some reason I felt guilty that I was a passenger on the bus. The driver and his coworker continued the route, while the boy sat there crying. I finally turned to the people behind us and asked if they spoke English. They did, and I explained that we were on our way to the hospital. So once everyone got off, Pat and I took them to Mother Teresa’s open wound clinic. When we got there I examined the boy’s leg. He was trying to be so strong and thankfully it didn’t look like his leg was broken. When the head sister came out I explained what happened. Since it was a result of a dispute she said they were not allowed to treat him and that it would have to be taken care of at a government hospital. I could tell she was sorry she couldn’t do more, but it didn’t make things better. I realized I had to let it go and hope that the driver would do the right thing and take him to a hospital where he could at least get some pain medicine. At that point it was too late to volunteer at the hospital so Pat and I turned around and went back home. The rest of the day I noticed every street kid that we passed. One little boy in rags climbed a short barbed wire fence, walked to a grassy area in the middle of town and squatted to go to the bathroom. His pants were too baggy to really stay on. No one was with him.

It was hard for me to do anything “normal” after that. All I could think about is the injured boy and his loneliness. I went to Mother Teresa’s in Asco that afternoon and held the babies. Some of them are really getting big. I can see their personalities develop and how they are more aware of things around them. Yared, the baby that I have fallen in love with was not there again. He is back in the sick room. I found him in the very last crib sucking on a bottle of special formula. When I came up to the side of the crib he got a sparkle in his eye, pulled the bottle out of his mouth and lifted it to me. Then he pulled it away quickly and smiled. He has developed a coy humor. He also loves to be held, but he doesn’t cry or beg like the other babies do. He is very gentle and sweet. Whenever I hold him he just lays his head on my shoulder and looks out the window. His eyes squint in a slight smile when he is at ease. That sick room is home to a constant rotation of orphaned and abandoned babies with HIV. Some are only days old and left for dead in the streets. The nurses and sisters love them and bring them back to health to the best of their ability. Sister Maria took me around one day and told me each one’s story without looking at a single chart. Some of them are so tiny and malnourished that they just lay and groan. Sister Maria is their mother and provider. One time when I was there a nurse gave me an oxygen machine and asked me to administer it to one of the sickly babies. This was progress from the oxygen tubes he had been breathing from. Yesterday another baby was propped up on a crib and handed the breathing machine. She sat there and gave herself the treatment. An Israeli woman noticed my shock and confirmed that a normal child would not be able to do that.