I have never been more eager to "get away" than on Friday after giving my students their first test. I realized that there are several that truly cannot grasp anything I have taught because they cannot read or communicate in English. I felt like I was letting them down and was so ready for the weekend to arrive so that I could regroup and try again on Monday. I couldn't be happier when Habtamu our driver arrived at the school to take us back to the house for our big road trip. Two guys who sometimes teach with Watt and I also came with us. They are from UNC too. So our group had the 11 of us from Cherokee, Jeremy and Reed, and Abraham - 14 in all. Abraham got us a great deal on a small bus which was much more comfortable and roomier than it would have been on a minibus.
We left around 1:00 with very little knowledge of what to expect, but filled with sheer excitement and anticipation of a great adventure. Our group is so fun and full of energy that even though the ride turned out to be three hours longer than expected not a moment was lost on us. Just getting out of the city was a thrill because the air is cleaner and the terrain is beautiful. We descended into the low-lands surrounded by farms and green rolling hills. Our bus ride was the first of many amazing things to happen to us over the course of the weekend. We thought dodging oncoming traffic was living on the edge when all of a sudden one of our tires popped and the bus went careening into the other lane and swiftly swerved onto the side of the road. I was at the very back of the bus at the time and almost landed face first into the back steps. After the initial shock we jumped off the bus and greeted the spectators that had quickly gathered. Locals just appeared out of nowhere...literally, for there was not a village or sign of civilization anywhere. We had hoped we could mingle with the local tribes, but hadn't expected it to come about by flat tire! Child shepherds walked up to us in sheer curiosity and we decided to walk across the field toward a hut. People came from all directions and by the time we had gotten to the middle of the pasture we had a crowd of about 50 just staring and saying hello. It was incredible and so surreal - to be in Africa, in the wide open splendor and visiting with people of such opposite lifestyles as our own. Their reality is survival. Technology is the use of a spear for hunting and a staff for herding. Some of the children didn't even have pants on. But they also have joy and community. If given the choice of my life or theirs I don't doubt that they would chose the latter. Materialism and image complicates things to such an unnecessary degree. There was something so pure and real about how they lived. Still, their lives are so primitive in comparison to what we have. Even Addis felt like a booming metropolis after being in those fields surrounded by villagers and their livestock. We had a great time connecting with them though. Watt and some others showed them a hokey dance, and Rebecca gave them all of the cookies Asni had made for us. An hour later, our tire had been replaced and we were on the road again.
We got to Lake Langano around 6:00 I guess. The view was incredible. The lake is so huge you sometimes can't see all the way across from it. And the trees are massive and just what you would picture of Africa. We just kept saying "we're in Africa!" Finally our bus turned off the main highway and onto a dirt road. This 12 mile haul was incredibly bumpy and at times terrifying as the bus seemed to be driving on two wheels instead of four. We passed by more huts and villagers, occasionally seeing one holding a spear. It was nearing nightfall when we reached the boxcar bridge. This is significant because the bridge was our only gateway to the lake and the bridge was literally a boxcar so our bus could not fit. It was being guarded by men holding spears and AK47s. That didn't bother me as much as the realization that we were going to walk the last four kilometers. Fortunately we had each only packed a book bag, but unfortunately none of us knew where the lodge was located or how to find it. We had no guide or map - just a trail that lead into the dark jungle. I guess we were freaked beyond thinking rationally and just decided to have faith that somewhere out there was our destination and our path would lead to it. (Sidebar: our original plan was to go to Langano for one night and stay at a really nice hotel until we found it would be cheaper to stay at Wenney Eco Lodge for two nights. Seeing as it had taken us 7 hours to get to the lake we were glad we had chosen two nights, but picking a lesser known lodge that appeared to be in the middle of no man's land had yet to be determined.)
I was the only one who had brought a flashlight. It really only came in handy when we had to read the trail markings. The rest of the time the path was lit by the moon. At times it was quite scary. We had the sense of being watched and could see the outlines of huts nearby. Sometimes a villager would stand on the path as we walked by and follow us for a bit. We had no clue what type of animals were lurking on either side of us and we knew that we could startle a snake at any step. Seeing the men with spears had been disconcerting and walking as fast as we could without tripping or falling was our ultimatum. At one point a man asked in broken English where we were headed. We blindly pointed toward Wenney Lodge. He said, "it is here." We stopped for a second and looked around. He was standing in front of four small huts with no electricity or markings. We hesitated and gave each other sideways glances half believing that this was it and then realized he was confused and so were we. We kept walking. Now praying that our lodge was a little more equipped than that and fearing the worst. We knew that if we weren't walking toward our lodge we were probably not going to find it until morning. We were trying not to think about it, but we were wondering what the heck we would do if we could not find the place in the dark. Finally, we reached the sign we had been looking for and entered the gates of Wenney Lodge. The guards were quite perplexed as to how we had managed to get there on foot. We didn't have the stamina to ask if we could have done it differently. We were sweaty, tired, and hungry, but it looked like we had found it. Still all we had in front of us was a one-room wooden "reception" lodge. We looked around but there were no signs of our "bungalows." We were handed keys and the guys and girls were divided into two groups and escorted first to the restaurant. The restaurant was our first good impression. It was a massive open-air shelter with exotic decor and wood furnishings. It was very reassuring and being the only guests we were guaranteed the restaurant would stay open for us. So off we went down another windy trail to our "bungalow." Again we kept our expectations low, but when we stepped inside we were enchanted by the rustic ambiance. Our lodge had two main rooms each containing two double beds and a bathroom with a real toilet, shower, and running water (more than we expected!) Our bathroom even had a tree growing through it which served as our toilet paper holder and hanging over our beds were mosquito nets. We loved it and screamed for joy that we had arrived safely.
Dinner that night was fresh tilapia straight from the lake. We dined and exclaimed over and over again at how amazing our weekend had been and it hadn't even begun! After dinner we crawled into beds enclosed in our nets and immediately wrote in our journals about our adventure - that was until the lodge shut off the generator and we no longer had power. We learned in the morning that the lights only work from 6:00 in the evening until 11:00...hmmm, oh well.
My room set the alarm for 8:00 am but woke at 7:00. We couldn't wait to see everything in daylight. When I got up Rachael and Victoria were already in beach chairs reading by the lake. That first view took my breath away. It was so peaceful and serene. Everything was silent except for the sounds of the birds and the frogs. The water was still and the sky was hazy casting a blue tint over the distant mountains. The tall sea grass bordered the sides of the water. The beach was soft. I sat with them and just sat in awe of my surroundings. I could feel how far from home I was - this place is another planet. I don't know if I have had a closer view of God's divine creation than at that moment. The scene in front of me could have been a painting. I hated to pull myself up from that moment, but breakfast called. As we ate our breakfast the rain began to pour. It was a cold downpour. Our plans for horseback riding seemed to be shot, but the group remained optimistic. Not to be deterred for a moment, the guys decided to play in the rain. They literally put on their swim trunks and ran around barefoot splashing in the floods of rain. Soon all of us had our bathing suits on and were making our way to the lake. Ten or so stole a boat and began to paddle out into the water. It was so spontaneous but it was awesome! We put aside all inhibitions and went wild! The lake was a disgusting mushy feeling under our feet and at any other time I would not have dared walk a foot in it, but I gathered my courage and waded out to the boat. The water was not deep and it was almost warm. After most of them had headed back to shore a few of us lingered and began sloshing the grime from the bottom of the lake at each other. As disgusting as it felt and smelled we still proceeded to smear it all over each other and get pictures to prove that we had gone insane. Then Page came to our rescue and threw us a bottle of shampoo. We figured it wouldn't hurt to bathe in the lake since it was the same water that was coming out of our faucet.
That was our first excursion of the morning and by the time we had worn down the rain had stopped. So we prepared to go on a "trek." That trek turned into a two hour hike through the jungle. Again, one of the most amazing things I've ever done. We weaved through the tropical forest with ancient trees towering above us. Soon we got our first glimpse of the monkeys. If I hadn't felt it yet, that was my confirmation that I had arrived in Africa. Seeing monkeys jumping from the trees - black and white furry ones. As we continued our hike we found some big, brown baboons who were much more intimidating than the others. Every now and then we would pass a villager, and they would stop and stare. Always eager to shake our hand or nod hello. Most of the time they were herding cows, donkeys, and goats. It has become commonplace to pass livestock on the road (or path.) Our guide took us through many narrow pathways and always pointed out an exotic bird or tree. At one point we came across a cemetery of a tribe buried six hundred years ago. It was overgrown by the forest and all that remained were six tiny moss covered tombstones. Then he showed us a tree that spewed a milky liquid when struck open. He urged us to sample it. The taste was like liquid chalk and the texture was very sticky until I tried to wash it off with rain drops and then it felt like silk. We continued on until we reached the hanging vines and everyone took a turn swinging from the trees. We took pictures to capture the moment knowing that this was another capstone to our great adventure. We didn't have to retrace our steps to get back to the lodge and when we reached a clearing we were once again in awe of the beauty of the land and the lake. The flat open space surrounded by the jungle was a sight to be seen. As we walked a parade of villagers passed by. Who knows where they were headed - there isn't anything but the most primitive plots of land for miles. When we got back we were starving.
After lunch we divided into groups for horseback riding. Since there were only five horses we divided into two groups and the rest chose not to ride. Our plan was to have one group go to the waterfall. Then walk on foot to the hippo watching while the horses came back for the second group. Then the rest were going to walk straight to the hippo watching. It was a little unsettling to try to iron out this plan with our guide since his English was not clear, but we just hoped for the best as we had with everything else. The first group headed off while rest of us relaxed and waited our turn. I rode with the second group of five. When we reached our horses I could tell they aren't treated like our horses in Kentucky. And of course our saddles weren't quite the same either. I was given the small horse with a saddle that had one stirrup that was too long for my foot to reach. I also only had a rope for reigns. But we weren't given the liberty of using the reigns on our own. Each of us had to have a guide walk with us down the trail. Most of our guides were young boys. Mine walked barefoot through the rugged terrain. He was very sweet and intent to show me surroundings. I was told that my horse was very dangerous and couldn't be trusted to ride on my own. We were frustrated that we couldn't really ride our horses at a faster pace, but once we got to a clearing they let us run for a bit. It had been so long since I had ridden a horse that I felt certain it was going to end with a crash, but I managed to stay on - one stirrup and all! The most surreal moment was riding into an open pasture within the jungle and being among hundreds of cows, horses, sheep, and villagers. It was a scene right out of a movie. I couldn't believe what I was doing. It was so liberating. We finally rode through the jungle to the waterfall. There we got off our horses and got to take a look. Then we got back on and rode to the water to see the hippos. That part was so much fun because once we could see the rest of our group our guides let us take off on our own. We didn't run full speed but at least we got to ride at a smoother and faster pace than a trot. When we got to the coast we were escorted to the rocks at the very edge and the guides began to call out to the hippos. Within seconds three hippos popped up in the distance. I don't know what sound the men were making, but it piqued the hippos' interest and they were actually coming closer. Incredible. Seeing the hippos in the wild like that was simply incredible. As the sky began to darken with an approaching storm we made our way back to the horses. The first group rode back while the rest of us had to walk. It was actually a nice walk. We had our escorts with spears so we were "safe." (We laughed at how trusting we were with the natives.) One of the boys with a spear apparently hadn't been a part of the horseback riding package and decided to part ways when the evening came to a conclusion; he simply said bye and headed home...into the jungle.
Upon our arrival at the lodge we quickly grabbed showers and headed to dinner. A nice long dinner gave us plenty of time to think back to the last twenty-four hours and realize what an incredible adventure we had had. Words can hardly describe how awesome it was and I can't believe it was just yesterday! It feels as if it were a dream. After dinner we piled into one of the rooms and played guitar and sang praise worship (we managed to haul the guitar with us too.) This morning we got up early, packed, and ate breakfast before we hiked back out the way we came (except this time a shortcut.) When our account was settled we had each spent approximately 900 birr -- $90 for everything: room, transportation, food, excursions. The best money ever spent.
On our way home I predicted that the mouse had been captured. Sure enough, when we got back I heard a scream and the mouse was stuck to the glue trap. Sadly, he was still alive. Matt decided that the most humane way to kill him was to behead him with an axe. Thus ends the saga of the menacing mouse. The perfect ending to a perfect weekend.
Monday, July 30, 2007
Thursday, July 26, 2007
Day 23
This week has been a blur and for the most part uneventful. Sunday we attended Beza International church again. The pastor’s mother preached and she was pretty wild. Her message was powerful however I think it could have had the same impact without the shouting into the microphone. No, I hate to be critical because it really was a great message about God’s love for us and His desire to see our purpose fulfilled.
After church the seven of us went to Denver Café for lunch. We had burgers and fries and got to watch CNN! We were glued to the TV. I didn’t realize how much I missed seeing the news on TV. I had been nervous about ordering a burger, but it was good! The rest of the day we lounged around.
Monday, was Gabi and Molly’s last day so Watt and I left Destiny right after class to spend time with them. It was so fun walking around town midday instead of during rush hour traffic. Plus, it was sunny and warm. I graded my kids’ homework and then finally decided to brave the freezing temperatures and bathe outside in a bucket. Since our water has not been on since Wednesday we had to resort to getting a massive tank of water. Everything has to be washed manually – flushing the toilets with buckets, bathing in buckets, washing hands one at a time with bottled water, etc. It can be quite tedious and you don’t feel clean. The tank was an absolute necessity after days of not being able to flush the toilets. Our room smelled as if we were sleeping next to a port-a-potty. It was so horrible; we looked forward to going out just so we could use a facility with running water.
We finally got water back yesterday, but then it went out again. It is so unreliable that we clamor to shower whenever we can. I finally got a hot shower for the first time in over a week today, but the water ran out halfway through. "That’s Africa," as we say now. (Not the most pc thing to say I know.)
Tuesday, I went to Destiny to find out something terrible had happened to Hareg and Tenagne. Their younger brother who had been missing for over a week had killed himself. Obviously, the news was devastating to their family and it affected the whole school. I had a hard time concentrating the rest of the morning knowing the pain and suffering Hareg and her family were experiencing. Yesterday, I got to go with Benjamin and Marcos (a friend and helper at Destiny) to visit Hareg at her parents’ house. It’s the home where she grew up and it is just outside of Tor Highloch where the Cherokee house is. I was worried about how she was holding up, but it was no shock that she was able to greet me with her usual warmth and care. Even in her saddest moments Hareg displays a peace and faith that I have hardly seen in anyone. She and Yunatin took special care to make sure I understood the cultural displays of mourning. I was in awe of love and grief that was shared amongst the visitors. A tent was set up and grass placed on the ground and everyone that came sat and grieved with the family. I ask for prayers for the family as this is going to be a long, difficult journey.
Through all of this, I am thankful that I have Watt here to cheer me up. I laugh constantly when I am with him. He really is one of the most unique characters I have ever met. After less than two weeks he is speaking Amharic with the people! He butchers a lot of it, but the effort goes a long way. We make friends everywhere we go or we’re getting laughed at – either way it’s an adventure. Now, every time we take a taxi he tells them I’m his wife. They get such a rise from it. Today, he casually told the money collector that I handle the money in our marriage and always pay. It had the whole van rolling in laughter. Yesterday, when we were waiting for our taxi I got hit by a van. Not hard, just tapped in the elbow, but now I can proudly say I was electrocuted and hit by a vehicle in Africa.
Today, I got to leave for work later than Watt since I only tutor on Thursdays. I was on my own to catch a taxi in the morning rush. Getting one seemed like a hopeless venture, but a man called to me indicating he was going to get me on one. He actually made the driver of a van stop out of his way to let me on. I did not like getting that kind of special treatment because I basically cut in front of dozens of other people who had been waiting. I felt the awkward sense of white supremacy and was so embarrassed, but it was a kind gesture that I could not refuse. EVERY time we go to catch a taxi there is someone willing to help, someone who will give up his seat, or someone who will walk us to our destination. It is such a sweet moment.
This morning I began teaching English to one of our student’s mothers. She speaks some English, but does not understand much of what I say. I am going to be tutoring her three days a week. I am once again thrust into new territory and just praying I can manage to teach her successfully. I also had a couple students in my class come for some extra help. I realized that one of my boys cannot read English at all. I have no idea how I am going to keep him afloat in my "advanced" English class. Tomorrow is test day. I will get to see how well they comprehend what we learned this week.
This afternoon, Watt and I went to Mother Theresa's Asco orphanage. I spent two hours holding the babies. It is so hard to put them down because they cry as soon as you leave. It breaks my heart being there, but it is also one of the most fulfilling things I can do. Page has been working as a nurse at Asco and has put her all into it. She and another girl led the kids in a light aerobics class. Watt and I joined in. It was so much fun.
Tomorrow after work, the whole house is going on a weekend getaway to Lake Langano. It is about 3 hours away (but we'll see!) We are really looking forward to being out in the countryside. Yunatin showed me pictures of it. They were amazing. The lake has a beach and all kinds of outdoor activities. It is going to be such a great retreat for everyone. Then on Monday four more of the girls are going back home to the States. It's going to be so sad when everyone leaves. By mid-August it is just me for two weeks. I can't believe how fast the time has gone by.
After church the seven of us went to Denver Café for lunch. We had burgers and fries and got to watch CNN! We were glued to the TV. I didn’t realize how much I missed seeing the news on TV. I had been nervous about ordering a burger, but it was good! The rest of the day we lounged around.
Monday, was Gabi and Molly’s last day so Watt and I left Destiny right after class to spend time with them. It was so fun walking around town midday instead of during rush hour traffic. Plus, it was sunny and warm. I graded my kids’ homework and then finally decided to brave the freezing temperatures and bathe outside in a bucket. Since our water has not been on since Wednesday we had to resort to getting a massive tank of water. Everything has to be washed manually – flushing the toilets with buckets, bathing in buckets, washing hands one at a time with bottled water, etc. It can be quite tedious and you don’t feel clean. The tank was an absolute necessity after days of not being able to flush the toilets. Our room smelled as if we were sleeping next to a port-a-potty. It was so horrible; we looked forward to going out just so we could use a facility with running water.
We finally got water back yesterday, but then it went out again. It is so unreliable that we clamor to shower whenever we can. I finally got a hot shower for the first time in over a week today, but the water ran out halfway through. "That’s Africa," as we say now. (Not the most pc thing to say I know.)
Tuesday, I went to Destiny to find out something terrible had happened to Hareg and Tenagne. Their younger brother who had been missing for over a week had killed himself. Obviously, the news was devastating to their family and it affected the whole school. I had a hard time concentrating the rest of the morning knowing the pain and suffering Hareg and her family were experiencing. Yesterday, I got to go with Benjamin and Marcos (a friend and helper at Destiny) to visit Hareg at her parents’ house. It’s the home where she grew up and it is just outside of Tor Highloch where the Cherokee house is. I was worried about how she was holding up, but it was no shock that she was able to greet me with her usual warmth and care. Even in her saddest moments Hareg displays a peace and faith that I have hardly seen in anyone. She and Yunatin took special care to make sure I understood the cultural displays of mourning. I was in awe of love and grief that was shared amongst the visitors. A tent was set up and grass placed on the ground and everyone that came sat and grieved with the family. I ask for prayers for the family as this is going to be a long, difficult journey.
Through all of this, I am thankful that I have Watt here to cheer me up. I laugh constantly when I am with him. He really is one of the most unique characters I have ever met. After less than two weeks he is speaking Amharic with the people! He butchers a lot of it, but the effort goes a long way. We make friends everywhere we go or we’re getting laughed at – either way it’s an adventure. Now, every time we take a taxi he tells them I’m his wife. They get such a rise from it. Today, he casually told the money collector that I handle the money in our marriage and always pay. It had the whole van rolling in laughter. Yesterday, when we were waiting for our taxi I got hit by a van. Not hard, just tapped in the elbow, but now I can proudly say I was electrocuted and hit by a vehicle in Africa.
Today, I got to leave for work later than Watt since I only tutor on Thursdays. I was on my own to catch a taxi in the morning rush. Getting one seemed like a hopeless venture, but a man called to me indicating he was going to get me on one. He actually made the driver of a van stop out of his way to let me on. I did not like getting that kind of special treatment because I basically cut in front of dozens of other people who had been waiting. I felt the awkward sense of white supremacy and was so embarrassed, but it was a kind gesture that I could not refuse. EVERY time we go to catch a taxi there is someone willing to help, someone who will give up his seat, or someone who will walk us to our destination. It is such a sweet moment.
This morning I began teaching English to one of our student’s mothers. She speaks some English, but does not understand much of what I say. I am going to be tutoring her three days a week. I am once again thrust into new territory and just praying I can manage to teach her successfully. I also had a couple students in my class come for some extra help. I realized that one of my boys cannot read English at all. I have no idea how I am going to keep him afloat in my "advanced" English class. Tomorrow is test day. I will get to see how well they comprehend what we learned this week.
This afternoon, Watt and I went to Mother Theresa's Asco orphanage. I spent two hours holding the babies. It is so hard to put them down because they cry as soon as you leave. It breaks my heart being there, but it is also one of the most fulfilling things I can do. Page has been working as a nurse at Asco and has put her all into it. She and another girl led the kids in a light aerobics class. Watt and I joined in. It was so much fun.
Tomorrow after work, the whole house is going on a weekend getaway to Lake Langano. It is about 3 hours away (but we'll see!) We are really looking forward to being out in the countryside. Yunatin showed me pictures of it. They were amazing. The lake has a beach and all kinds of outdoor activities. It is going to be such a great retreat for everyone. Then on Monday four more of the girls are going back home to the States. It's going to be so sad when everyone leaves. By mid-August it is just me for two weeks. I can't believe how fast the time has gone by.
Saturday, July 21, 2007
Day 18: Painting Destiny
Thursday afternoon a big group of us went to the world famous Fistula Hospital. It is an institution set up for women with childbirth injuries. It became infamous in the US when Oprah selected it as one of the organizations that she sponsors. I had heard about it in the States but had forgotten that it was located in Addis. As soon as you step onto the grounds you feel like you’ve entered a tropical haven. It is an amazing and merciful place of healing and comfort for women who have been severely damaged by lack of proper medical care. Because of the type of injuries that they receive either from rape or poor birthing methods they are not able to control urination and are treated as outcasts in the community. The Fistula Hospital provides medical treatment and rehabilitation surgery free of charge for these women, many times young girls. They operate on donations. Sometimes the damage is so severe that the women are not able to return home. Those that must remain at the center have the opportunity to make a living through a micro-enterprise cooperative. Others get training and become nurse aides for the hospital. All of the girls were warm and receptive toward us as we toured the wards. I had such sadness for them knowing the pain, suffering, and humiliation they have experienced.
Afterwards, a few of us went to the mercado – a massive outdoor market. It consists of rows of stores ranging from hardware to school supplies. There is also a large market with countless booths of African arts and crafts. Of course, the vendors hounded us when we entered, but it was a lot of fun perusing all of the jewelry and art. I collected many of their business cards and plan to make some good deals when it gets closer to my departure. Bartering is a must at these places. When we got back to the house Asni had made our favorite dinner – tacos and homemade tortilla chips. But to my dismay the water was out again…it still isn’t on.
Yesterday, I concluded my first week of teaching by giving out a pop quiz. The kids did pretty good, but I still feel discouraged by my inability to communicate clearly. I’m sure if they understood better what I was saying they would be doing so much better. Thankfully, Tenagne is usually there to help me translate instructions. I was so thrilled that after a day off of school all of the students had remembered to bring back his or her library book and completed homework.
When school was over all of the girls from the Cherokee house came to paint. We managed the best we could, but it was pretty hectic trying to keep all 13 of us occupied and on task. Plus the paint had been mixed with gas which is clearly a paint thinner so the paint just slid down the walls. We made a huge mess. We had to tape all of the wall corners because each wall is a different color. It was an extremely difficult undertaking keeping the edges clean because the corners of the walls aren’t straight. After a few hours of painting we had covered the whole school with one coat of paint. We had to wash off with gas – knowing we had no running water at home we were feeling extremely gross. Trying to keep things sanitary with no water is next to impossible. Now that it has been three days of no water the house is on complete shut down. Dishes are conserved because they can’t be washed, laundry piles up, hand sanitizer is a must, and the worst thing is the toilets. Since we cannot flush we are dealing with a foul mess. Every time we go out we use public toilets and try to take advantage of any sink with running water.
Today, day three of no shower, we went back to Destiny to finish painting. Then we returned to the spa we had visited last weekend just to use the showers. We had to pay of course, but this was our last resort – we were disgusting! Matt has spent the last two days trying to purchase a water tank for the house because it sounds like the city is going to be periodically shutting down the water over the course of the next several months. The shower was cold, but it was the greatest feeling to be clean again.
Tonight we ate dinner at the top of a tall building downtown Addis at place called Paradise Restaurant. It was so nice and the food was fabulous.
Afterwards, a few of us went to the mercado – a massive outdoor market. It consists of rows of stores ranging from hardware to school supplies. There is also a large market with countless booths of African arts and crafts. Of course, the vendors hounded us when we entered, but it was a lot of fun perusing all of the jewelry and art. I collected many of their business cards and plan to make some good deals when it gets closer to my departure. Bartering is a must at these places. When we got back to the house Asni had made our favorite dinner – tacos and homemade tortilla chips. But to my dismay the water was out again…it still isn’t on.
Yesterday, I concluded my first week of teaching by giving out a pop quiz. The kids did pretty good, but I still feel discouraged by my inability to communicate clearly. I’m sure if they understood better what I was saying they would be doing so much better. Thankfully, Tenagne is usually there to help me translate instructions. I was so thrilled that after a day off of school all of the students had remembered to bring back his or her library book and completed homework.
When school was over all of the girls from the Cherokee house came to paint. We managed the best we could, but it was pretty hectic trying to keep all 13 of us occupied and on task. Plus the paint had been mixed with gas which is clearly a paint thinner so the paint just slid down the walls. We made a huge mess. We had to tape all of the wall corners because each wall is a different color. It was an extremely difficult undertaking keeping the edges clean because the corners of the walls aren’t straight. After a few hours of painting we had covered the whole school with one coat of paint. We had to wash off with gas – knowing we had no running water at home we were feeling extremely gross. Trying to keep things sanitary with no water is next to impossible. Now that it has been three days of no water the house is on complete shut down. Dishes are conserved because they can’t be washed, laundry piles up, hand sanitizer is a must, and the worst thing is the toilets. Since we cannot flush we are dealing with a foul mess. Every time we go out we use public toilets and try to take advantage of any sink with running water.
Today, day three of no shower, we went back to Destiny to finish painting. Then we returned to the spa we had visited last weekend just to use the showers. We had to pay of course, but this was our last resort – we were disgusting! Matt has spent the last two days trying to purchase a water tank for the house because it sounds like the city is going to be periodically shutting down the water over the course of the next several months. The shower was cold, but it was the greatest feeling to be clean again.
Tonight we ate dinner at the top of a tall building downtown Addis at place called Paradise Restaurant. It was so nice and the food was fabulous.
Friday, July 20, 2007
Day 17: My First Week of Teaching
Sunday night the second guy of the house arrived. It is nowhere near reaching a balance of the sexes in the house, but at least it is now 2:13. His name is Watt and he has been placed at Destiny Academy with me. It is so good that he came when he did so that he was able to start on the first day of summer school. I did feel sorry for him though because we just put him to work immediately, and he still hasn’t had a chance to really take everything in. We were lucky to get a message to him in time to bring much needed school supplies. He was able to bring all the material I needed for my English class including two massive dictionaries. I was so excited to have it in time for my first class.
Well, class started much sooner than I wanted and somehow I managed to teach for the next three and a half hours. I began with an introduction and an attempt at all of their names and then I had each one stand and say their name and something about themselves. Then I had the class say, “I am confident” in unison. (We are going to say that every morning until they truly mean it.) After introductions I explained a little about how the class is going to be structured over the next seven weeks. Fortunately, I had Jerry, one of the teachers, there to assist me in communicating instructions.
The rest of the day involved methods of learning vocabulary, reading out loud, journaling, using dictionaries, and hangman. Hangman is an excellent game to play because it helps them practice spelling, counting, and class interaction. My class jumped from 18 to 22 in two days, but that is going to be the limit. I have a 10 year-old and two 18 year-olds. The older kids were upset yesterday and felt like they were too old to be in my class, but as we worked on reading and writing I think I was able to convince them that they had more to learn. I’ve assured them that I would make it challenging enough for them. The fact is that I have 12 year-olds that are at the same level as some of the older kids so age really isn’t a factor.
By the time class was over I was exhausted. Matt, Diane and Jessica joined us for lunch at the Ethiopian restaurant next to the school. It was the first time for Diane, Jessica, and Watt. Hareg and Benjamin (Watt’s teaching partner) joined us. It was so nice to be through our first day. The rest of the afternoon we worked on lesson plans and working out some of the kinks in the schedule. My class is the only one that only has English all morning. The rest of the school is nursery through grade 5 and they are taught all of the other subjects. Watt and Benjamin are teaching science. Benjamin is Ethiopian. He lives next to the school and thanks to Yunatin and Hareg’s influence he is studying to be a teacher. He and Watt are a great team.
(The above was written two days ago…I finally found some time to get the rest caught up.)
I am amazed that I am almost through my first week of teaching, and even more shocked that it has almost been three weeks since I got here. Time has a funny way of passing when you are in a foreign country. You simultaneously feel as if you’re frozen in time and flying through weeks in an instant. On Tuesday as Watt and I were waiting to get a taxi home a man walked up to me and asked where I was from. When I told him America he looked amazed and said, “Ah, America, king of the world.” I just smiled and said thank you because he did not mean it in an antagonistic way. I am constantly self-conscious of the way I portray the image of an American and more importantly a Christian – here you can’t help being observed by everyone around you.
Days two and three of teaching were just as strenuous as my first. I now have 24 students and decided not to turn any away. We’ll make do somehow. Jerry has been pulled to teach Amharic (the native language) so I am on my own in the classroom. Sometimes Hareg’s sister Tenagne helps. My older students are no longer complaining about how “easy” my class is, and I am beginning to identify the needs of the individual students. Thursdays are my day off and are reserved for planning, but I told some of the younger students they could come to the library for extra tutoring if they needed. When I got to the school this morning there were six of them waiting for instructions. I wasn’t surprised since I know they don’t have much to go home to, but it is moving to see such an intense desire in young children. Deep down I had hoped to have my morning open for lesson planning, but I knew that these kids needed extra help so we read Cinderella together. They love that book.
All of the books in the library are donated. They are all used, mostly children’s books. Hareg and Yunatin are passionate about the library; it is the only one in a nine school radius. Like everything else, they have built it from scratch. They even glued library check-out cards and pockets in the back of every book. My class became the first official members of the library. I let them check out their first book yesterday since we didn’t have class today. Hareg hopes to be able to keep it open all day for people in the community.
Yesterday, Hareg invited me and Watt to join them for lunch at the house. As I mentioned earlier, H&Y gave up their home for this school so they literally live at the school. They installed their own shower, toilet and have made a makeshift home out of the property. I usually pack a lunch and eat at the table with Hareg and her adorable girls, Ruth and Abigail, but yesterday I ate Habesha (Ethiopian) food with them. I truly like it. I don’t know that I could eat it three times a day like they do, but it is quite good. I left before Watt did so I took the taxi home alone. As I was walking, I struggled to keep from laughing because I was getting heckled from every direction and alongside me were three cows walking in the same direction. I could barely resist the urge to pet them, but I knew the locals would really think I was crazy then. Then a man came up from behind me and said, “I have a message for you.” I thought about ignoring him, but turned and he continued, “Did you know a man named Jesus Christ died for your sins?” I said, “Yes.” And he said, “Really? Then you are saved?” And I said, “Yes, I am.” He smiled and left. Religion, education, and poverty are the only real topics that get discussed here. Small talk about sports, pop culture, and politics rarely takes place. If it does, it’s discussed in Amharic and I don’t hear it! I’m still searching for a paper in English. Usually they are sold in hotels, but they are days old. I am really out of the loop. I have no idea what is going on in the rest of the world – here we just care about survival and hope for a better future.
I am so excited to have everyone from the Cherokee house over tomorrow to paint the school. Destiny Academy is one of those beacons of hope in this developing country.
Monday morning I was the first one awake in the house and put breakfast out on the table. Watt and I left at 7:00 AM and got to Destiny a half hour before school started. I was apprehensive about my first day of teaching, but still trying to be a good guide for Watt. Again I felt sorry for him because our backpacks were weighed down by all of the materials we had gotten plus it was raining. When we got there I was blown away by how much Hareg had gotten done over the weekend. She had installed lights in my classroom, which also functions as the library, prepped all of the walls for painting, built a huge white erase board, built ten desks, and organized all of the classrooms. As she always says, “It will get done.” One thing I have learned from her is to push through tiredness and just do it.
Probably the most hilarious thing that happened to me that day occurred when I switched on the newly installed lights in my class…I actually got electrocuted. Needless to say it was shocking!
Well, class started much sooner than I wanted and somehow I managed to teach for the next three and a half hours. I began with an introduction and an attempt at all of their names and then I had each one stand and say their name and something about themselves. Then I had the class say, “I am confident” in unison. (We are going to say that every morning until they truly mean it.) After introductions I explained a little about how the class is going to be structured over the next seven weeks. Fortunately, I had Jerry, one of the teachers, there to assist me in communicating instructions.
The rest of the day involved methods of learning vocabulary, reading out loud, journaling, using dictionaries, and hangman. Hangman is an excellent game to play because it helps them practice spelling, counting, and class interaction. My class jumped from 18 to 22 in two days, but that is going to be the limit. I have a 10 year-old and two 18 year-olds. The older kids were upset yesterday and felt like they were too old to be in my class, but as we worked on reading and writing I think I was able to convince them that they had more to learn. I’ve assured them that I would make it challenging enough for them. The fact is that I have 12 year-olds that are at the same level as some of the older kids so age really isn’t a factor.
By the time class was over I was exhausted. Matt, Diane and Jessica joined us for lunch at the Ethiopian restaurant next to the school. It was the first time for Diane, Jessica, and Watt. Hareg and Benjamin (Watt’s teaching partner) joined us. It was so nice to be through our first day. The rest of the afternoon we worked on lesson plans and working out some of the kinks in the schedule. My class is the only one that only has English all morning. The rest of the school is nursery through grade 5 and they are taught all of the other subjects. Watt and Benjamin are teaching science. Benjamin is Ethiopian. He lives next to the school and thanks to Yunatin and Hareg’s influence he is studying to be a teacher. He and Watt are a great team.
(The above was written two days ago…I finally found some time to get the rest caught up.)
I am amazed that I am almost through my first week of teaching, and even more shocked that it has almost been three weeks since I got here. Time has a funny way of passing when you are in a foreign country. You simultaneously feel as if you’re frozen in time and flying through weeks in an instant. On Tuesday as Watt and I were waiting to get a taxi home a man walked up to me and asked where I was from. When I told him America he looked amazed and said, “Ah, America, king of the world.” I just smiled and said thank you because he did not mean it in an antagonistic way. I am constantly self-conscious of the way I portray the image of an American and more importantly a Christian – here you can’t help being observed by everyone around you.
Days two and three of teaching were just as strenuous as my first. I now have 24 students and decided not to turn any away. We’ll make do somehow. Jerry has been pulled to teach Amharic (the native language) so I am on my own in the classroom. Sometimes Hareg’s sister Tenagne helps. My older students are no longer complaining about how “easy” my class is, and I am beginning to identify the needs of the individual students. Thursdays are my day off and are reserved for planning, but I told some of the younger students they could come to the library for extra tutoring if they needed. When I got to the school this morning there were six of them waiting for instructions. I wasn’t surprised since I know they don’t have much to go home to, but it is moving to see such an intense desire in young children. Deep down I had hoped to have my morning open for lesson planning, but I knew that these kids needed extra help so we read Cinderella together. They love that book.
All of the books in the library are donated. They are all used, mostly children’s books. Hareg and Yunatin are passionate about the library; it is the only one in a nine school radius. Like everything else, they have built it from scratch. They even glued library check-out cards and pockets in the back of every book. My class became the first official members of the library. I let them check out their first book yesterday since we didn’t have class today. Hareg hopes to be able to keep it open all day for people in the community.
My classroom/Destiny's library.
Yesterday, Hareg invited me and Watt to join them for lunch at the house. As I mentioned earlier, H&Y gave up their home for this school so they literally live at the school. They installed their own shower, toilet and have made a makeshift home out of the property. I usually pack a lunch and eat at the table with Hareg and her adorable girls, Ruth and Abigail, but yesterday I ate Habesha (Ethiopian) food with them. I truly like it. I don’t know that I could eat it three times a day like they do, but it is quite good. I left before Watt did so I took the taxi home alone. As I was walking, I struggled to keep from laughing because I was getting heckled from every direction and alongside me were three cows walking in the same direction. I could barely resist the urge to pet them, but I knew the locals would really think I was crazy then. Then a man came up from behind me and said, “I have a message for you.” I thought about ignoring him, but turned and he continued, “Did you know a man named Jesus Christ died for your sins?” I said, “Yes.” And he said, “Really? Then you are saved?” And I said, “Yes, I am.” He smiled and left. Religion, education, and poverty are the only real topics that get discussed here. Small talk about sports, pop culture, and politics rarely takes place. If it does, it’s discussed in Amharic and I don’t hear it! I’m still searching for a paper in English. Usually they are sold in hotels, but they are days old. I am really out of the loop. I have no idea what is going on in the rest of the world – here we just care about survival and hope for a better future.
I am so excited to have everyone from the Cherokee house over tomorrow to paint the school. Destiny Academy is one of those beacons of hope in this developing country.
Sunday, July 15, 2007
Day 13: Enjoying the Weekend in Addis
Yesterday turned out to be an extraordinarily great day starting with a morning of pampering at the spa. When I left the states I had joked that I would be finding the nearest spa as soon as I got there, but I truly had not planned on ever actually going to one. But an Ethiopian friend invited all of us girls to join her and would not accept no for an answer. As with everything, we were unsure of what to expect, but it turns out the spa was very similar to the ones in the U.S. All 12 of us signed up for an hour-long massage and then some of us also got manicures and pedicures. It was fabulous and definitely the best massage I have ever had! We were even more thrilled that all of our treatments would cost no more than $13. Even after only two weeks I appreciate any moment where I can feel totally clean and since we hadn’t had any running water for three days it was such a wonderful retreat. When leaving we had to face the torrential downpour typical of the rainy season, but this time our moods couldn’t be dampened by anything.
Girls' day at the spa.
That afternoon we greeted two more guests that will be staying with us for the week. Jessica, the niece, was eager to see the city so she went with me and Masta to run some errands. Since all of the shops are closed on Sunday we have to get our shopping done on Saturdays. I bought some chalk and erasers for Destiny Academy – after we had gone from store to store to compare prices. That’s how you shop for everything. I also had to find a pharmacy to buy some anti-fungal cream for some of the girls – we think they have ringworm. We just have to laugh about it because so many weird things have happened to our bodies, and we know it could be much worse. The rain had stopped so the walk through Mexico was pleasant. On our way back Masta took us to a café and helped us order a mixed fruit drink. It’s basically a smoothie. Mine was mango, avocado, and papaya layered on top of each other – it was delicious. Masta warned us that as foreigners we should only order from the cafes that we know serve fresh smoothies; otherwise, we could get one that has been sitting around for days and get really sick.
Jessica and Mastewal with their tasty smoothies.
When we got back it was time to get ready for dinner night out. None of us girls brought nice clothes, but feeling refreshed from our pampering we decided to get “dressed up.” It was the first time I had used a hairdryer in two weeks. This time we went to a Korean restaurant called The Rainbow. Most of us ordered some version of sweet and sour chicken or teriyaki chicken. It was not nearly as heavy as you would get it in the states which was good.
This morning several of the girls fixed a big breakfast of pancakes, bacon, eggs, and baked apples. I am definitely going to miss their cooking when they leave! Then we went to a different church called International Evangelical Church (IEC.) Since there were 10 of us we figured we’d have to take separate taxis, but while we were trying to sort it out five or six people on the taxi gave up their seats so that we could all ride together. It was such a blessing; we were so thankful for their kindness.
The church is a very Westernized congregation and style. I believe it was started by Americans. It was a gorgeous building and landscaped grounds. Our friend Abraham does the sound system. The service was much more traditional than the one I had experienced at Beza last week. I like both styles. The minister is a guest preacher for the next three weeks. He is Korean. His message was about the apostle John and the church in Ephesus. Having been to Ephesus I appreciated hearing him describe the situation of the church during the time of John’s writings. He said that the divisions of the church during that time stemmed from a misunderstanding of Jesus Christ. Some struggled to believe that Jesus could be simultaneously human and God. The contrasting beliefs caused division and hatred in the church which still happen to this day. To reconcile these divisions he urged us to focus our hearts on Jesus. He must be on our hearts and minds everyday, every moment. By keeping him at the center of our lives all of our relationships will be drawn closer and more perfect.

Sunday morning at IEC.
Friday night after Hareg had left our house, we gathered together to pray for her and her family. They all decided they wanted to do something for the school so this week we are going to paint it. I am in awe of their generous hearts – when I was in college I don’t think I was capable of that kind of selflessness.
Girls' day at the spa.
That afternoon we greeted two more guests that will be staying with us for the week. Jessica, the niece, was eager to see the city so she went with me and Masta to run some errands. Since all of the shops are closed on Sunday we have to get our shopping done on Saturdays. I bought some chalk and erasers for Destiny Academy – after we had gone from store to store to compare prices. That’s how you shop for everything. I also had to find a pharmacy to buy some anti-fungal cream for some of the girls – we think they have ringworm. We just have to laugh about it because so many weird things have happened to our bodies, and we know it could be much worse. The rain had stopped so the walk through Mexico was pleasant. On our way back Masta took us to a café and helped us order a mixed fruit drink. It’s basically a smoothie. Mine was mango, avocado, and papaya layered on top of each other – it was delicious. Masta warned us that as foreigners we should only order from the cafes that we know serve fresh smoothies; otherwise, we could get one that has been sitting around for days and get really sick.
Jessica and Mastewal with their tasty smoothies.
When we got back it was time to get ready for dinner night out. None of us girls brought nice clothes, but feeling refreshed from our pampering we decided to get “dressed up.” It was the first time I had used a hairdryer in two weeks. This time we went to a Korean restaurant called The Rainbow. Most of us ordered some version of sweet and sour chicken or teriyaki chicken. It was not nearly as heavy as you would get it in the states which was good.
This morning several of the girls fixed a big breakfast of pancakes, bacon, eggs, and baked apples. I am definitely going to miss their cooking when they leave! Then we went to a different church called International Evangelical Church (IEC.) Since there were 10 of us we figured we’d have to take separate taxis, but while we were trying to sort it out five or six people on the taxi gave up their seats so that we could all ride together. It was such a blessing; we were so thankful for their kindness.
The church is a very Westernized congregation and style. I believe it was started by Americans. It was a gorgeous building and landscaped grounds. Our friend Abraham does the sound system. The service was much more traditional than the one I had experienced at Beza last week. I like both styles. The minister is a guest preacher for the next three weeks. He is Korean. His message was about the apostle John and the church in Ephesus. Having been to Ephesus I appreciated hearing him describe the situation of the church during the time of John’s writings. He said that the divisions of the church during that time stemmed from a misunderstanding of Jesus Christ. Some struggled to believe that Jesus could be simultaneously human and God. The contrasting beliefs caused division and hatred in the church which still happen to this day. To reconcile these divisions he urged us to focus our hearts on Jesus. He must be on our hearts and minds everyday, every moment. By keeping him at the center of our lives all of our relationships will be drawn closer and more perfect.
Sunday morning at IEC.
Friday night after Hareg had left our house, we gathered together to pray for her and her family. They all decided they wanted to do something for the school so this week we are going to paint it. I am in awe of their generous hearts – when I was in college I don’t think I was capable of that kind of selflessness.
Saturday, July 14, 2007
My First Full Week
Well, my schedule finally caught up with me. This week has kept me very busy now that I have found my place of work. On Monday morning I went with Matt to three different locations. Haptamu our driver took us in his taxi which helped us accomplish all three meetings before noon; otherwise, we would have been driving around all day on minibuses. Our first stop was Ababech which is an orphanage that also runs a women’s workshop. They have a lot of big sponsors so their need for volunteers is not as critical.
Our second stop was Destiny Academy - my reason for going. Destiny is a school that is only two years old. It was started by a couple named Yunatin and Hareg. They are amazing people. I made an instant connection with them when they came to our 4th of July party. Even though at the time I was completely open to being wherever I needed to be deep down I knew I wanted to work at Destiny. Words cannot describe the faith and love that is in the hearts of Yunatin and Hareg. They gave up Hareg’s income, a comfortable lifestyle, and their home to move to Gofa in Addis and start this school. The tuition for summer school is a mere 100 Birr ($10) - as Yunatin says, they are not in it for business they are in this to do good. The sad reality is most people in the neighborhood cannot even afford that and Y&H’s hearts are so big that it is a struggle to turn people away. The tuition is barely enough to cover the expenses of the school; it is humbling to work with Hareg everyday and see the sacrifices she is making to allow more children attend for free. As soon as Matt and I got to the school I could see how much care and effort they have put into it. Yunatin was on the road speaking to various churches and organizations while Hareg was preparing for school and trying to keep track of her two young daughters. The visit was so moving that I could barely hold back tears. I immediately knew that it was the place I wanted to work.
Hareg and her daughters: Abigail and Ruth.
Our third meeting at Children’s Home Society was just as eventful. We basically went there because I had not been able to meet with the director of the orphanage on Friday. To kill time we first went to the primary school. As we were sitting on the mats watching the kids perform an American woman came in and picked up her child. She greeted us with a huge grin and said, “Is this your first time?” I just looked at her and smiled and mumbled some kind of explanation as to why we were there, but after she left Matt laughed and said she thought we were there to adopt. It had not even crossed my mind that people would think that! It was really funny. We got the same reaction when we went back to the offices to wait. I think it’s mainly because people go out of their way to make a connection here…especially foreigners. It is such a huge thing to adopt from a foreign country – I really admire anyone who takes that leap of faith. When we did get to meet with Asnaki I was prepared to tell him that the meeting was really a waste of his time because I had found the place where I needed to be and that it was apparent that they were in no need of volunteers, but I was completely wrong. As we were explaining and sort of apologizing for setting up a pointless meeting he interrupted us and said I had been committed to work for them to help them prepare a new school for 1000 students! I was dumbfounded – somehow he had gotten the impression that I was a professional teacher and would be able to write the curriculum for the new school! It was very awkward when Matt told him that I was not really the person he needed. Rather than make any promises, I simply took the proposal for the school and agreed to help them critique it. While I’m here I’m going to do whatever I can, but in this instance I felt like they were placing too much emphasis on obtaining a Western influence. I know that CHS has plenty of talented and experienced people with an education background who are much more capable than me. We arranged a meeting for the next day with the task force even though I knew my input would be of little use.
That was just the morning…in the afternoon I went with some of the girls to Asco to play with the orphans. Afternoon visiting hours are from 3:00-6:00 pm. We basically go there and let the kids pile on top of us. Some of the girls got their hair braided by the kids. I then took them up to the sick ward. There was one baby that had arrived the first day I visited Asco. She died two nights ago. The children who are HIV positive and not taking ARV’s will not likely live beyond their early twenties. It is such a cruel disease and I feel so ignorant and helpless. As I held one of the babies I had to confirm that I could not be infected by their saliva. One thing that the girls have been told is that we are probably carriers of TB now that we have been around the sick children. Medicine is taken for granted in the States; here, an illness often means the difference between life and death.
Running water is also taken for granted…I haven’t showered for two days. The city shuts the entire system off whenever there is construction. We have no idea when it is going to happen or when it is going to come back. Right now we are at such a shortage that we have to watch how many dirty dishes we accumulate because we have no way to clean them. Our toilets don’t flush either.
After Asco, Molly, EJ, and I went for a run. I hadn’t really ventured about our neighborhood on foot yet so I was excited to see the area. People cheered as we passed by – apparently we were quite a spectacle. About six or seven kids joined us as we zig-zagged through the busy streets. One boy followed the whole way and helped me avoid injury from the uneven ground – parts of it were quite treacherous and the mud often forced us to run on the road up against the massive buses packed with people. The fumes and smog from all of the vehicles constantly irritate your throat and eyes. It still surprises me that after one week I am unfazed by some of the things I have encountered. Like seeing a severed goat’s leg on a busy sidewalk or boys on their hands and knees cutting lawns by hand.
Tuesday was my first day at Destiny Academy. It was also my first day riding on the taxis alone. I managed to get to the school with no trouble – I was thankful for the sunny weather so that I didn’t have to slosh through the mud as I navigated. Hareg was hard at work when I arrived. She explained her plans and decided that I would teach the older kids English. This means I will have one class all morning four days a week. Summer School is 7 weeks and will end August 30th. So far there are 15 students enrolled in my class, but she expects the number to jump to 25-30. The age range is 9 – 27 years old which is basically 6-10th grade. I was completely overwhelmed at the notion of it at first, but I’m finally able to take it in stride – somehow it will work! The miraculous thing that happened that day was a phone call that Hareg received shortly after I arrived. She turned to me and asked if I was from Kentucky. When I said yes she handed me the phone and an American woman named Jennifer was on the line. It turns out she and her husband are the American couple I had brought goodies for from their family in Frankfort, Ky. I had been trying to get in touch with them since I had arrived. Jennifer had called the Cherokee house after I left that morning and coincidentally decided to call Hareg, who is one of their best friends, and invite her to lunch. Hareg just happened to mention that I was now helping at Destiny and something triggered Jennifer to ask where I was from. It is such a small world! So on Wednesday I got to meet James and Jennifer and go with them and Yunatin and Hareg to a restaurant near the school. It was my first real experience with Ethiopian food. They ordered lots of things for me to try. All of it includes injera which is the staple food. It’s basically a thin, spongy pancake that you use to scoop up sauce, meat, and vegetables. You eat it with your fingers and everyone shares the same plate. No inhibitions allowed!
Ethiopian food.
After four days of work, I have managed to get set in my routine. Although, a short bout of nausea did throw me off for a bit (may have had something to do with my first Ethiopian meal.) I even walked home from Mexico one afternoon because the weather was so nice and the traffic was terrible. It was a lot longer walk than I had remembered, compounded by feeling extremely self-conscious from all the stares that I was getting. People will say, “hello, how are you,” but most just stare and giggle at the sight of a white person. Many will say “forenji” which means foreigner. I never encounter negativity – just fascination and curiosity. They really care what we think of their city and always try to help. That’s why I never have to worry about getting on the wrong taxi – someone always helps me clarify where it is going. The only downside to my day is the part of my route that goes past the city slaughtering factory. Even from a distance you can see the mountains of bones and hundreds of vultures hovering over the warehouse. It is the most grotesque thing I have ever seen or smelled. I pray for mercy every time I pass that horrid place of death…even residents of Addis struggle to keep a straight face when we pass it. But that’s really the only complaint I have. The cost to get to and from work is fifty cents a day and the people I get to spend time with have already blessed me in many ways.
Destiny Academy.
Tonight, we had “cup of soup, lots of love,” a Cherokee house tradition. I brought Hareg and other friends of Cherokee joined us. It is a great way to connect with all of the Cherokee partners. I was also blessed to have our family friend Tsegaye join us. It was my first time meeting him although I have known his family, particularly his wife Roman, for nearly 10 years. It is going to be so nice having someone like him here in Addis.
One last thing, we are still trying to catch the mouse that is in my closet. He somehow managed to get in my suitcase and eat some of the food I had brought James and Jennifer. He is quite a menace and apparently very smart. Two nights in a row he has successfully cleaned our trap without triggering it. As inhumane as this sounds, I now go to bed anticipating the sound of the trap and wake up dismayed when it has not gone off. The whole house is involved…sometimes it’s the little things in life that matter!
Sunday, July 8, 2007
Day 5: My First Sunday In Addis
I just got back from my first church service in Ethiopia. I went with a few girls to Beza International Church. The service was very much like a charismatic Christian church in the states. There are only a handful of white people in attendance and the rest are Ethiopian, but the service is in English. The praise and worship was amazing. Everyone worshipped with all their hearts and it was evident that the people around us have a very deep faith. It became obvious to me that there was nothing I could offer the people there that they don’t already have. Their faith is sufficient for them and their confidence and peace comes from the Lord. They had a guest speaker from the U.S. He is Ethiopian, but he attended Wake Forest and is now working on his doctorate at Harvard. He is part of a group that started a Christian ministry called “Forest Fire” at his university…something that is still active today. His message was, “Our house is bigger than we think it is.” For a country with so much poverty that message struck a nerve. He meant that our spiritual authority is given to us by God and those who are faithful will grow to have more and more authority. In faith, we all have a spiritual authority over our territory – at our home, at our work - and God will expand that territory if we continue down a path of prayer and love. I felt like that message released me from the worldly notion that I have the power to change Ethiopia. It is not my territory to change, but through my faith God will expand my territory and my reach and maybe, I will be able to touch the lives I encounter here.
It felt so good to be in a place that has such a love for Jesus. We were on a high and it made the noisy, messy journey back to our house enjoyable. Actually, I am thrilled that I am gaining confidence in getting around. Everything looks so similar (and yet foreign) that it is very intimidating to try to get a “taxi” anywhere on your own. But today, I recognized the routes and believe I can do it on my own soon. It is always an adventure and inevitably we encounter something new. For instance, this morning our taxi was rear-ended in the middle of a rainy, four lane nightmare. Miraculously we still made it to church on time.
Yesterday was also enjoyable. We had coffee at our friend Abraham’s house. He lives in the outskirts of Addis so we had to contract a taxi for our group which still only cost $5 for the entire bus! Being in the highlands, the altitude has made it difficult to adjust, but once we get out of the city the air is fresh and light. The green mountainous landscape is a huge contrast to the dirty, grunginess of the city. Abraham is our age. He speaks very good English and lives in between homes of his brothers. He gave us a demonstration of Ethiopian dance moves. He also speaks openly about his faith in Jesus and does the sound system at another church in Addis. Ethiopia’s history goes back to biblical Christianity and the birth of the Church and Ethiopians take pride in that heritage and their faith. It seems like religion is divided into three main groups here: Orthodox, Protestant, and Muslim.

It felt so good to be in a place that has such a love for Jesus. We were on a high and it made the noisy, messy journey back to our house enjoyable. Actually, I am thrilled that I am gaining confidence in getting around. Everything looks so similar (and yet foreign) that it is very intimidating to try to get a “taxi” anywhere on your own. But today, I recognized the routes and believe I can do it on my own soon. It is always an adventure and inevitably we encounter something new. For instance, this morning our taxi was rear-ended in the middle of a rainy, four lane nightmare. Miraculously we still made it to church on time.
Yesterday was also enjoyable. We had coffee at our friend Abraham’s house. He lives in the outskirts of Addis so we had to contract a taxi for our group which still only cost $5 for the entire bus! Being in the highlands, the altitude has made it difficult to adjust, but once we get out of the city the air is fresh and light. The green mountainous landscape is a huge contrast to the dirty, grunginess of the city. Abraham is our age. He speaks very good English and lives in between homes of his brothers. He gave us a demonstration of Ethiopian dance moves. He also speaks openly about his faith in Jesus and does the sound system at another church in Addis. Ethiopia’s history goes back to biblical Christianity and the birth of the Church and Ethiopians take pride in that heritage and their faith. It seems like religion is divided into three main groups here: Orthodox, Protestant, and Muslim.
A view from outside Addis.
Afterwards, we got to have dinner out on the town. We actually ate at a place overlooking town called Top View. It is a very nice restaurant. All 10 of us had appetizers, a main course, and dessert for less than $100!
Group photo at Top View restaurant.
This week my goal is to take a taxi on my own – and get to my destination! I also plan to visit more programs and make a decision on what I’ll be doing for the next four months.
Saturday, July 7, 2007
The Weekend Is Here
We’ve enjoyed two days of sunshine. It really makes a difference to wake up to a warm, sunny day. I think we have all come to terms with the constant rain and mud, but when it is sunny we are elated.
Yesterday, I went with Bethany to another part of town. She takes one taxi and then walks another mile or so to work. It was so nice to have a long walk outside of the hustle and bustle of the city. She took me to the Children’s Home Society to introduce me to the staff while she went on to teach a course at the nursing college. CHS is one of the better orphanages in Addis. It has excellent nannies and nurses caring for the babies and toddlers; they run a tight ship. Many American adoptions are taking place there each month. While I was waiting to speak with the head administrator a couple from Minnesota arrived to pick up their baby girl.
I met with the doctor at the child care center where they keep the babies and toddlers. It was apparent that I was not going to be of much use to them since I am not a nurse. But the head nurse still gave me a tour of the center. I was so impressed with the level of detail and care they apply to each child. They document every aspect of the child’s life so that the adoptive parents and the child can understand his past. If they found him in the gutter they film that. There is such a contrast between CHS and the crowded HIV Mother Theresa’s Asco orphanage.
You soon realize that time in Africa is not viewed the same as in America. They are much more laid back here – time is not of the essence. I was told that the head administrator would be available to meet at 11:00 AM so I waited an hour and forty-five minutes in the office for him. He later called to reschedule for 2:00 PM. Since Bethany was done teaching we had to leave. I’m going to give it another try on Monday.
When we got back to our town, Tor Highloch, a man stopped us and said he saw us at CHS. He then continued to walk with us and tell us his occupation and life plans. Being white we get talked to and stared at everywhere we go. People like to practice English with us. A young girl tapped me on the shoulder, asked how I was and told me her name. The only other thing she knew how to say was “money.”
For lunch, Asni had made homemade fries and grilled cheese sandwiches. She is an awesome cook and always has food ready for us. At this rate we’re all afraid of gaining weight. The rest of the day was very leisurely since it’s the weekend. We decided to stay in have and dinner together. Some folks watched a movie on a laptop in the bedroom. But it is the goal of the house to remain culturally sensitive in our surroundings so we do not have a TV and do not use electronics in the main part of the house. Being here for four months I am wondering how I am going to keep up on the news in the rest of the world. I’m already losing track of time. The Internet is too slow to use. Fortunately, there are newspapers printed in English that carry international news.
Last night, Victoria became sick. Almost everyone has been sick at some point this week. We believe it is a virus. I am just praying I can resist it. She slept in my room to be nearer to the bathroom and was sick all night. Thankfully, she is feeling better this morning. Some of the girls went to the open wounds clinic at Mother Theresa’s this morning. I’m still trying to take it slow so I stayed in to read and write.
Two more visitors are arriving from the states this morning. Later today we plan to go to Abraham’s house for a coffee ceremony. Coffee is the largest crop in Ethiopia and is believed to have originated here. They know how to fix it. Rachael and I ordered a macchiato the other day and it only cost 35 cents. It was very good.
Asni and Hannah get the weekends off so the house usually cooks in one night and eats out the other. I think we’ll go out tonight…my first restaurant experience.
Yesterday, I went with Bethany to another part of town. She takes one taxi and then walks another mile or so to work. It was so nice to have a long walk outside of the hustle and bustle of the city. She took me to the Children’s Home Society to introduce me to the staff while she went on to teach a course at the nursing college. CHS is one of the better orphanages in Addis. It has excellent nannies and nurses caring for the babies and toddlers; they run a tight ship. Many American adoptions are taking place there each month. While I was waiting to speak with the head administrator a couple from Minnesota arrived to pick up their baby girl.
I met with the doctor at the child care center where they keep the babies and toddlers. It was apparent that I was not going to be of much use to them since I am not a nurse. But the head nurse still gave me a tour of the center. I was so impressed with the level of detail and care they apply to each child. They document every aspect of the child’s life so that the adoptive parents and the child can understand his past. If they found him in the gutter they film that. There is such a contrast between CHS and the crowded HIV Mother Theresa’s Asco orphanage.
You soon realize that time in Africa is not viewed the same as in America. They are much more laid back here – time is not of the essence. I was told that the head administrator would be available to meet at 11:00 AM so I waited an hour and forty-five minutes in the office for him. He later called to reschedule for 2:00 PM. Since Bethany was done teaching we had to leave. I’m going to give it another try on Monday.
When we got back to our town, Tor Highloch, a man stopped us and said he saw us at CHS. He then continued to walk with us and tell us his occupation and life plans. Being white we get talked to and stared at everywhere we go. People like to practice English with us. A young girl tapped me on the shoulder, asked how I was and told me her name. The only other thing she knew how to say was “money.”
For lunch, Asni had made homemade fries and grilled cheese sandwiches. She is an awesome cook and always has food ready for us. At this rate we’re all afraid of gaining weight. The rest of the day was very leisurely since it’s the weekend. We decided to stay in have and dinner together. Some folks watched a movie on a laptop in the bedroom. But it is the goal of the house to remain culturally sensitive in our surroundings so we do not have a TV and do not use electronics in the main part of the house. Being here for four months I am wondering how I am going to keep up on the news in the rest of the world. I’m already losing track of time. The Internet is too slow to use. Fortunately, there are newspapers printed in English that carry international news.
Last night, Victoria became sick. Almost everyone has been sick at some point this week. We believe it is a virus. I am just praying I can resist it. She slept in my room to be nearer to the bathroom and was sick all night. Thankfully, she is feeling better this morning. Some of the girls went to the open wounds clinic at Mother Theresa’s this morning. I’m still trying to take it slow so I stayed in to read and write.
Two more visitors are arriving from the states this morning. Later today we plan to go to Abraham’s house for a coffee ceremony. Coffee is the largest crop in Ethiopia and is believed to have originated here. They know how to fix it. Rachael and I ordered a macchiato the other day and it only cost 35 cents. It was very good.
Asni and Hannah get the weekends off so the house usually cooks in one night and eats out the other. I think we’ll go out tonight…my first restaurant experience.
Friday, July 6, 2007
Celebrating the 5th of July
Day two has come and gone and I already feel as if I have been here for weeks. I have met so many fascinating people and it is amazing to see how our lives intertwine. One day, before I arrived, Lyston reconnected with a woman we had both met in India two years ago – the same trip on which he and I met. It was by complete accident that she was detoured in Addis this week. I got to visit with her tonight and we were in awe of this random reunion.
Last night I awoke at 2:00 AM thanks to jet lag and remained awake the rest of the night paranoid by the noisy mouse in our room. After a breakfast of banana bread and coffee I went with Rachel to Moses where she has been teaching 17 orphans math and English. Our taxi ride took us in the opposite direction from yesterday’s trips so I got to see a new part of town. It’s funny asking for a taxi to Mexico, but that is actually a big part of the city.
The children at Moses are very bright, which makes it very hard to leave them at the end of the day knowing they have no outside activities. Rachel has no teaching background and is going into her senior year of college; however she did an excellent job teaching the kids. We played hang-man and solved word problems. When we returned from lunch the kids had drawn a heart around the letters “r” and “j” and had written, “We love you very much.”

Children at Moses Orphanage.

Then, after class we went to the Mother Theresa’s hospital for the sick and the dying destitute. We went directly to the children with special needs ward. This room had about 12 young children with severe mental and physical disabilities. It was a very difficult place for me to be with the smell of urine and constant noise. The kids have diapers that are wrapped in garbage bags to try to keep the linens clean, but the task is too overwhelming to maintain cleanliness. Rachel is gifted with a joy and energy for these children and is working to spend all of her time with them. For me, it was a struggle being there for just a few hours. We stayed to feed the kids and prepare their beds. It is a massive undertaking, but the staff is very talented and understands each child’s personality. It is impossible not to get emotional at a place like this, and it is exhausting. I admire the doctors and nurses that are there from all over the world volunteering their time.
When we got home the festivities for our 5th of July party had begun. The sheep had been slaughtered earlier in the day and were already on the grill. So many people from the various organizations Cherokee partners with came and visited. It was a great gathering and the meal was tasty.
Now, I’m off to bed and the mouse traps are set.
Last night I awoke at 2:00 AM thanks to jet lag and remained awake the rest of the night paranoid by the noisy mouse in our room. After a breakfast of banana bread and coffee I went with Rachel to Moses where she has been teaching 17 orphans math and English. Our taxi ride took us in the opposite direction from yesterday’s trips so I got to see a new part of town. It’s funny asking for a taxi to Mexico, but that is actually a big part of the city.
The children at Moses are very bright, which makes it very hard to leave them at the end of the day knowing they have no outside activities. Rachel has no teaching background and is going into her senior year of college; however she did an excellent job teaching the kids. We played hang-man and solved word problems. When we returned from lunch the kids had drawn a heart around the letters “r” and “j” and had written, “We love you very much.”
Children at Moses Orphanage.

Then, after class we went to the Mother Theresa’s hospital for the sick and the dying destitute. We went directly to the children with special needs ward. This room had about 12 young children with severe mental and physical disabilities. It was a very difficult place for me to be with the smell of urine and constant noise. The kids have diapers that are wrapped in garbage bags to try to keep the linens clean, but the task is too overwhelming to maintain cleanliness. Rachel is gifted with a joy and energy for these children and is working to spend all of her time with them. For me, it was a struggle being there for just a few hours. We stayed to feed the kids and prepare their beds. It is a massive undertaking, but the staff is very talented and understands each child’s personality. It is impossible not to get emotional at a place like this, and it is exhausting. I admire the doctors and nurses that are there from all over the world volunteering their time.
When we got home the festivities for our 5th of July party had begun. The sheep had been slaughtered earlier in the day and were already on the grill. So many people from the various organizations Cherokee partners with came and visited. It was a great gathering and the meal was tasty.
Now, I’m off to bed and the mouse traps are set.
Lyston and the crew.
Wednesday, July 4, 2007
Day 1
I’m looking out the window of my room staring at the wall that surrounds our house. It has been raining steadily all day. Vibrant flowers and vegetation are everywhere. I arrived last night after a fifteen and a half hour flight. Thankfully there were no complications and after I collected my luggage I was greeted by Lyston and Matt. Lyston is in charge of the operations of Cherokee in Ethiopia. He travels back and forth between the U.S. and Africa many times a year. Matt is here to manage the house until mid-August.
We also have several Ethiopian “helper friends” who handle all the needs of the house. There is no need for me to make my bed, do my laundry, or cook meals because Asni and Hannah do it all. They are wonderful people. Everyone that I’ve encountered has greeted me with a smile. The people are known for their hospitality, politeness, and warmth. It has been an assuring thing to see that kind of interaction between visitors and locals.
When they brought me to the house, the garden and living room were lit with candles. The walls are decorated with pictures of Addis and homemade art. Books line the shelves. It is obvious that people staying at the house experience community and a connection in this place. There is a little dog (I forget its name) that has made the Cherokee house his home. The girls that have already been here for several weeks welcomed me in and heated my dinner: pizza, salad, and fruit. Lyston says it’s ok for me to eat fresh food at the house because the water is bleached. How assuring!

The Cherokee House. Inside our house.
Even though they’ve only been here a couple weeks the girls are all comfortable taking public transportation on their own and have established a work routine at various institutions. Today, I went with Rebecca and Paige to the Mother Theresa Orphanage in Asco. We wore mud proof shoes, raincoats, and rolled up pants. The streets are muddy during the rainy season and the taxis are minibuses that cram in as many people as possible. There is no sense of personal space in Ethiopia, and it is not uncommon to see men holding hands as they walk. We had to take three different taxis to get there which only cost about $1.

Walking to the taxi stop.
As we approached the orphanage, three little local boys came up and took my hand; the four of us walked to the gate hand-in-hand. It was my first encounter with the dear children here in Addis. The Asco orphanage cares for children that are HIV positive. Paige has a degree in nursing so she spends all day in the sick ward. Rebecca spoke with the head nun, Sister Maria, about teaching the kids since school is out. As we walked around the compound the toddlers pounced on us…grabbing and clinging, craving attention. The baby ward has rows of cribs; all of the babies are wrapped in warm blankets looking up at us and smiling. I simply picked one up and held her as we walked around. There are five nuns that run the orphanage and the rest are volunteers. I met a Jewish girl from Israel and a teacher from Germany.
Around noon we returned to the house and fixed lunch. I plan to relax the rest of the day and then tomorrow we are celebrating the Fourth of July (somehow the days got confused) by having a party and killing two sheep. I’m looking forward to that…
We also have several Ethiopian “helper friends” who handle all the needs of the house. There is no need for me to make my bed, do my laundry, or cook meals because Asni and Hannah do it all. They are wonderful people. Everyone that I’ve encountered has greeted me with a smile. The people are known for their hospitality, politeness, and warmth. It has been an assuring thing to see that kind of interaction between visitors and locals.
When they brought me to the house, the garden and living room were lit with candles. The walls are decorated with pictures of Addis and homemade art. Books line the shelves. It is obvious that people staying at the house experience community and a connection in this place. There is a little dog (I forget its name) that has made the Cherokee house his home. The girls that have already been here for several weeks welcomed me in and heated my dinner: pizza, salad, and fruit. Lyston says it’s ok for me to eat fresh food at the house because the water is bleached. How assuring!
The Cherokee House. Inside our house.
Lyston is going back to the states tomorrow which leaves Matt with a house full of girls. I am in the master bedroom with a girl named Rebecca. We have our own bathroom (which we share with others) and a desk for our laptops. She and I are the oldest. She is a teacher in North Carolina. The other girls are either seniors or recent graduates from UNC.

My bedroom.
Even though they’ve only been here a couple weeks the girls are all comfortable taking public transportation on their own and have established a work routine at various institutions. Today, I went with Rebecca and Paige to the Mother Theresa Orphanage in Asco. We wore mud proof shoes, raincoats, and rolled up pants. The streets are muddy during the rainy season and the taxis are minibuses that cram in as many people as possible. There is no sense of personal space in Ethiopia, and it is not uncommon to see men holding hands as they walk. We had to take three different taxis to get there which only cost about $1.
Walking to the taxi stop.
As we approached the orphanage, three little local boys came up and took my hand; the four of us walked to the gate hand-in-hand. It was my first encounter with the dear children here in Addis. The Asco orphanage cares for children that are HIV positive. Paige has a degree in nursing so she spends all day in the sick ward. Rebecca spoke with the head nun, Sister Maria, about teaching the kids since school is out. As we walked around the compound the toddlers pounced on us…grabbing and clinging, craving attention. The baby ward has rows of cribs; all of the babies are wrapped in warm blankets looking up at us and smiling. I simply picked one up and held her as we walked around. There are five nuns that run the orphanage and the rest are volunteers. I met a Jewish girl from Israel and a teacher from Germany.
Around noon we returned to the house and fixed lunch. I plan to relax the rest of the day and then tomorrow we are celebrating the Fourth of July (somehow the days got confused) by having a party and killing two sheep. I’m looking forward to that…
Monday, July 2, 2007
My First Post
Well, this is my first attempt at keeping a blog. I am going to try to write regular (hopefully) updates so that you can share in this experience.
Here's a brief summary: Today, I am flying out of Detroit and will arrive in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia tomorrow afternoon around 12:00 ET - it's about a 7 hour time difference so it will be evening when I arrive. I am volunteering through an organization called Cherokee Gives Back. Having not been there I have very little in my mind of what to expect, but will be assigned to a project when I arrive. One thing I do know is that it is the rainy season; it will be raining most of my first week. I also know that it is 1999 over there so I will get to celebrate the millennium twice!
My priority is to honor God in this journey and to do right by the people of Ethiopia. I am so thankful for this opportunity and excited about the life changing experiences. This wouldn't be possible without the love and support of my friends and family. I am in awe of the generosity and interest people have expressed to me already. I especially want to thank my parents and sister for all that they have sacrificed to make this possible. I also want to thank the Aley UMC kids for raising $102 for school supplies and Sam Crowe and the Winchester little league for collecting hundreds of kids tee-shirts and sports equipment. Thank you to my uncles and aunts who have given support in so many ways. And my kind neighbors for donating yard sale items to help raise money. Many, many of you are praying and I thank you for that. Thank you for taking time to read this blog. I hope it will enable you to share in this amazing opportunity.
Here's a brief summary: Today, I am flying out of Detroit and will arrive in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia tomorrow afternoon around 12:00 ET - it's about a 7 hour time difference so it will be evening when I arrive. I am volunteering through an organization called Cherokee Gives Back. Having not been there I have very little in my mind of what to expect, but will be assigned to a project when I arrive. One thing I do know is that it is the rainy season; it will be raining most of my first week. I also know that it is 1999 over there so I will get to celebrate the millennium twice!
My priority is to honor God in this journey and to do right by the people of Ethiopia. I am so thankful for this opportunity and excited about the life changing experiences. This wouldn't be possible without the love and support of my friends and family. I am in awe of the generosity and interest people have expressed to me already. I especially want to thank my parents and sister for all that they have sacrificed to make this possible. I also want to thank the Aley UMC kids for raising $102 for school supplies and Sam Crowe and the Winchester little league for collecting hundreds of kids tee-shirts and sports equipment. Thank you to my uncles and aunts who have given support in so many ways. And my kind neighbors for donating yard sale items to help raise money. Many, many of you are praying and I thank you for that. Thank you for taking time to read this blog. I hope it will enable you to share in this amazing opportunity.
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