I have decided to return to America as planned on November 1. It is strange to picture myself back in the States, back to my old way of life. I’ve grown accustomed to so many things…little things that seem insignificant, but add up to a changed mindset. For one thing, I have gone nearly four months without TV. Reading a book is now my choice form of entertainment. I’ve accepted that if one thing on a to-do list gets done then I’ve accomplished something. Though difficult, it is possible to coordinate without a cell phone. Choosing from a wardrobe that consists of 3 pairs of jeans, cargo pants, and a few tees makes the morning routine a whole lot shorter. Meal time is for sharing and visiting with friends – there is no such thing as a drive-thru. Getting online (via dial-up) every other day is sufficient. Buying food and toiletries is what I consider shopping. I’ve used a hair dryer maybe ten times and that’s the extent of fixing my hair. The term “going out” refers to dinner at a restaurant and home by 10:00PM. I have gotten used to taking my own toilet paper to the bathroom; it’s a novelty to find it in the stall. Dodging livestock and manure in the streets is commonplace. I find more pleasure in finding a seat on a taxi than hearing the latest celebrity gossip. Waking up at 6:00 AM comes naturally (it no longer takes two alarms and a phone call from Dad.) A sunny day makes for a great day. Some of these I’ll be glad to do without, but most have been a blessing in disguise. Certainly, safely drinking water from the tap will be a treat. And having the luxury to “get in a car and go” will be awesome. But being without some of the comforts of home has stretched me and given me the patience and the ability to find contentment in tough situations.
Thankfully, I managed to overcome the common attitude of feeling limited by the inaccessibility of so many things. Though at times the conditions are frustrating, even disgusting, it helped me to see how blessed I am and how much we are capable of living without. Or, in other words, how little can make us happy. What I’ve gained is a life that has been simplified and stripped of a lot of clutter. In some instances, going back will be a breath of fresh air. Knowing I have a return flight is what makes it easy. Still, I know it will also be a massive shock because I’ll finally see the disparity of wealth in this world. Hopefully, when I return I will keep a passion for the poor and a heart full of gratitude for what I possess.
(For an update about our trip to Bahir Dar - see previous post below)
Sunday, October 28, 2007
Day 117: Our Trip to Bahir Dar
Two weekends ago our group took a four-day trip to Bahir Dar in the north part of Ethiopia. I thought the south was beautiful, but I don’t think I’ve seen anything more spectacular than the views we had on our drive up. Eight of us rented a van and hired a driver for the weekend getaway. It was a much better deal than taking the forenji priced flight and missing out on the sights. We left at 5:00 AM (well, when we finally loaded up it was 5:45 AM) on Thursday morning geared up for the 10 hour drive. We drove over Entoto mountain just north of Addis and were soon in the country side. For the first 230 km the road was paved and offered an incredible view of bright, grassy fields and rugged mountains. Now that the rainy season is over the land is lush and green. Yellow meskel flowers that bloom in September dot the hillsides.
Leaving that early in the morning the sun shone bright and glistened over the misty fields and streams. Smoke billowed from the huts as people began their day with a cup of coffee. Children dressed in uniforms and carrying books headed in the direction of school and herders took their livestock to graze. We drove past people, often young children, carrying jugs to be filled with milk and water. Many people flagged their hand at us hoping for a ride in the direction of the next town. Aside from the road we were traveling on there was nothing, but natural splendor as far as the eye could see. I felt like a spectator traveling through another time and place.
On the road to Bahir Dar. Entering the gorge. Fields of green.
A few hours into it we stopped for coffee. Anytime we slowed in a town people would stop and stare at the spectacle of a van full of white people. Sometimes we felt like caged animals in a circus. Soon we had reached the hardest part of our drive...the Blue Nile Gorge. This is the part I had anticipated with trepidation for it is known for treacherous road conditions. We reached the start of it and realized just how vast it was. One guide book compared it to the Grand Canyon and I don’t think it’s that far off base. Knowing we were about to drive through it was something we had to prepare for. We took pictures along the way admiring our driver’s skills and giving up on any form of relaxation until it was over. 2 ½ hours later we had made it across the river to the other side and were back on paved road. It was amazing. The rest of the trip was pretty much the same. The sunset was incredible creating a view that pictures or words cannot capture. Finally, a short 13 hours after the start of our trip, we were in the lobby of the Summerland Hotel.
Bahir Dar sits on the southern shore of Lake Tana, the largest lake in Ethiopia. It is a tropical town with temperate weather conditions. The streets are lined with palm trees. The lake contains several islands home to ancient monasteries. On our first day we slept in and did our own thing until lunch. I went on a jog toward the “boardwalk” leading to the shore of the lake. Apparently, I stumbled onto a bathing area although I didn’t notice it until we were on a boat the next day. I had wondered why I was the only female around. (Those are the types of culturally sensitive situations you have to look out for.)
In the afternoon a connection hooked us up with a local tour guide who accompanied us to the Blue Nile Falls. It is the start of the Blue Nile River which is a source of the Nile. This is one of the sights I had hoped to see when in Ethiopia for the falls are comparable to Victoria Falls in Africa. Unfortunately, due to a hydro-powered plant the falls are not quite as spectacular as they used to be. It was still quite amazing. We hiked up a hill across from the falls. From there we had an awesome view of the massive flow of water. Cows grazed in the surrounding fields and children gave impressive spiels trying to sell handmade goods around this natural tourist attraction. We decided to hike another hour to get closer to the falls. This involved crossing a stream with the assistance from some of the locals. It made for a great adventure. The sun was setting and casting a golden light on everything. I really find it hard to describe how beautiful everything was. We got to the bottom of the falls and carefully climbed across the slippery rocks to stand as close as possible and let the mist spray our faces. Then we had to turn around and walk quickly to the top of the falls where we would catch the last boat crossing the river.
Crossing the Blue Nile by foot. The Blue Nile Falls.
The sun shining at dusk. Crossing the Blue Nile by boat at sunset.
On Saturday we got up early to meet our guide in the lobby. Then we rented a boat to go see some of the monasteries. Our boat was not very big and we sat facing each other on benches along the sides. It took an hour to cross to the peninsula where one of the monasteries from the 14th century is located. That took another hike through jungle-like vegetation including wild coffee. The church is a circular building made of vertically lined sticks. Inside are impressive paintings depicting biblical stories and historic tales. Old monks sat under a tree reading peacefully while we walked around and took photos. Some of them looked like they could have been as old as the church itself.
I found it very moving to be there. I met one little boy who is a deacon; he is only twelve. He is studying to become a priest. As I looked at the ancient relics and religious icons I realized the devotion the keepers of that monastery had. Some people found it disturbing that we should pay to be near the presence of God and I agree, but at the same time I was in awe of the self-denying faith that the priests possess. I was extremely grateful that for hundreds of years people have sacrificed their own personal desires to faithfully preserve God’s word and create a place for peaceful worship.
On our boat ride back we spotted a hippo. They aren’t normally visible in the lake so that was a major bonus.
Leaving that early in the morning the sun shone bright and glistened over the misty fields and streams. Smoke billowed from the huts as people began their day with a cup of coffee. Children dressed in uniforms and carrying books headed in the direction of school and herders took their livestock to graze. We drove past people, often young children, carrying jugs to be filled with milk and water. Many people flagged their hand at us hoping for a ride in the direction of the next town. Aside from the road we were traveling on there was nothing, but natural splendor as far as the eye could see. I felt like a spectator traveling through another time and place.
On the road to Bahir Dar. Entering the gorge. Fields of green.
A few hours into it we stopped for coffee. Anytime we slowed in a town people would stop and stare at the spectacle of a van full of white people. Sometimes we felt like caged animals in a circus. Soon we had reached the hardest part of our drive...the Blue Nile Gorge. This is the part I had anticipated with trepidation for it is known for treacherous road conditions. We reached the start of it and realized just how vast it was. One guide book compared it to the Grand Canyon and I don’t think it’s that far off base. Knowing we were about to drive through it was something we had to prepare for. We took pictures along the way admiring our driver’s skills and giving up on any form of relaxation until it was over. 2 ½ hours later we had made it across the river to the other side and were back on paved road. It was amazing. The rest of the trip was pretty much the same. The sunset was incredible creating a view that pictures or words cannot capture. Finally, a short 13 hours after the start of our trip, we were in the lobby of the Summerland Hotel.
Bahir Dar sits on the southern shore of Lake Tana, the largest lake in Ethiopia. It is a tropical town with temperate weather conditions. The streets are lined with palm trees. The lake contains several islands home to ancient monasteries. On our first day we slept in and did our own thing until lunch. I went on a jog toward the “boardwalk” leading to the shore of the lake. Apparently, I stumbled onto a bathing area although I didn’t notice it until we were on a boat the next day. I had wondered why I was the only female around. (Those are the types of culturally sensitive situations you have to look out for.)
In the afternoon a connection hooked us up with a local tour guide who accompanied us to the Blue Nile Falls. It is the start of the Blue Nile River which is a source of the Nile. This is one of the sights I had hoped to see when in Ethiopia for the falls are comparable to Victoria Falls in Africa. Unfortunately, due to a hydro-powered plant the falls are not quite as spectacular as they used to be. It was still quite amazing. We hiked up a hill across from the falls. From there we had an awesome view of the massive flow of water. Cows grazed in the surrounding fields and children gave impressive spiels trying to sell handmade goods around this natural tourist attraction. We decided to hike another hour to get closer to the falls. This involved crossing a stream with the assistance from some of the locals. It made for a great adventure. The sun was setting and casting a golden light on everything. I really find it hard to describe how beautiful everything was. We got to the bottom of the falls and carefully climbed across the slippery rocks to stand as close as possible and let the mist spray our faces. Then we had to turn around and walk quickly to the top of the falls where we would catch the last boat crossing the river.
Crossing the Blue Nile by foot. The Blue Nile Falls.
The sun shining at dusk. Crossing the Blue Nile by boat at sunset.
On Saturday we got up early to meet our guide in the lobby. Then we rented a boat to go see some of the monasteries. Our boat was not very big and we sat facing each other on benches along the sides. It took an hour to cross to the peninsula where one of the monasteries from the 14th century is located. That took another hike through jungle-like vegetation including wild coffee. The church is a circular building made of vertically lined sticks. Inside are impressive paintings depicting biblical stories and historic tales. Old monks sat under a tree reading peacefully while we walked around and took photos. Some of them looked like they could have been as old as the church itself.
I found it very moving to be there. I met one little boy who is a deacon; he is only twelve. He is studying to become a priest. As I looked at the ancient relics and religious icons I realized the devotion the keepers of that monastery had. Some people found it disturbing that we should pay to be near the presence of God and I agree, but at the same time I was in awe of the self-denying faith that the priests possess. I was extremely grateful that for hundreds of years people have sacrificed their own personal desires to faithfully preserve God’s word and create a place for peaceful worship.
On our boat ride back we spotted a hippo. They aren’t normally visible in the lake so that was a major bonus.
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